Few things are as vexing as a must-book dining experience you can’t actually book less than a month in advance. Your only option: join the waiting list and wish benign, table-freeing misfortune on others. Thankfully for those yet to sample Bangkok sensation Gaggan – Indian chef Gaggan Anand’s three-time Best Restaurant in Asia – they can now console themselves with, whisper it, a superior culinary spin-off. Gaa, opened across the street by former Gaggan and Noma chef Garima Arora, may lack Gaggan’s news-making gastronomic mischief (no emoji tasting menus and sanctioned plate-licking), but it matches Anand’s buccaneering approach to trans-Asian flavours. The New York Times enthused about its 10-course menu featuring “Indo-Siamese hybrids (Thai crayfish on Indian flatbread with shell bisque) [and] high-end comfort food (warm fermented tofu whey with charcoal-roasted cauliflower)”, but leave room for a sesame cone of turmeric soft serve. And book soon. Before Gaa goes the way of Gaggan.