Sure, it’s been tipped to be the next big thing in food every year since forever. Even so in 2018, apparently, is when new Filipino cooking finally takes off in the US. Or so it’s been said – again. But this year there’s probably more reason than ever to believe the hype as America’s two big food cities embrace the trend. You could call it a cross-continental face off, with restaurants such as Lasa and newly opened Big Boi in the blue corner, LA; while in the red corner, New York, classic eatery Tito Rad’s Grill lines up with the excellent Maharlika and newly opened Tama in Brooklyn. So who wins? Well, neither. Pretty much everyone agrees the best restaurant for new-wave Philippines cooking is actually in Washington DC. Just months after opening, Bad Saint was ranked number two in Bon Appétit’s 2016 list of America’s 10 best new restaurants. And, with plates like ukoy (shredded sweet potato fritters) and yellow chicken adobo (pictured) it’s still pulling rave reviews. “Extraordinary,” said Eater critic Bill Addison recently. “The dishes are narcotic in their potency.” But be warned: they don’t take reservations.