01. The Vatican
The tiny café here does a dependable espresso with terrace views of the city.
St Peter’s Basilica
Behold Michelangelo’s masterpiece in Italy’s most spectacular church.
Platters of cold meats and cheeses at this classic gourmand go-to attached to a historic deli.
Crowds ease after lunch at the world’s richest art collection.
02. The Historic Centre
La Tazza d’Oro
Start with stand-up espresso at this old time-y bar next to the Pantheon.
Chiostro del Bramante
The art museum’s latest blockbuster includes provocative works from Martin Creed and Erwin Wurm.
Campo de’ Fiori
Lunch on the sublime pizza bianca al forno.
Via del Governo Vecchio
Back street known for hip boutiques. Try Delfina Delettrez for jewellery and Kolby for chic menswear.
Order the carbonara – it’s unbeatable.
Buzzy weekend vintage market close to chic shopping lanes Via Urbana and Via Leonina.
Gelato so good it’s worth skipping lunch for.
Ai Tre Scalini
Monti is the best bar-crawl district in Rome. This ivy-clad wine bar is one of its best hang-outs. For live music, check out Black Market.
Opera season starts in October. Catch Tosca or La Traviata at Rome’s most stunning theatre.
04. The Ancient City
Explore the ruins of the former core of the Roman Empire. Book online to skip the queues.
Third tier is best for views of the gladiator arena.
Picnic amid the wild flowers of what was once the empire’s poshest neighbourhood.
Check out the frescoes in the chilly depths of Emperor Nero’s former palace (weekends only).
Michelin-star cooking and views of the Colosseum. Booking essential.
05. Testaccio & Ostiense
Ancient sculpture in a former power plant makes for a distinctive museum.
A once down-at-heel district has been given a (legal) make-over care of the best street artists in Rome.
Mordi e Vai’s beef panini – Roman street food at its best.
Seek out the grave of poet John Keats.
Hang with a creative crowd at Ostiense’s coolest bar-club.