What A much-loved, yet refreshingly untouristy 19th-century market, given a 21st-century makeover in 2005 by Barcelona architects Miralles Tagliabue EMBT.
Go for Stalls stacked high with local produce and the ceramic Modernista-style roof.
But don’t miss The handful of restaurants tucked inside the market, like stylish Med-fusion spot Cuines Santa Caterina.
See also Sant Antoni, another refurbed 19th-century market.
Can Cisa/Bar Brutal
What Laid-back restaurant (Bar Brutal) meets organic-focused wine bar (Can Cisa), from twins Max and Stefano Colombo.
Go for Creatively executed, Catalan-rooted sharing platters, or local cheese boards, delivered in a lively, holler-over-the-music atmosphere.
But don’t miss Can Cisa’s menu of natural wines, which roams across Spain, France and Italy.
See also The superb seafood-stuffed paella at nearby Casa Delfín.
What The sleek, Scandi-inspired cafe (open Friday to Sunday only) from local coffee roaster
El Magnífico – family owned since 1919.
Go for Speciality home-roasted brews, served up in a wood-beamed space with original stained- glass windows.
But don’t miss Pastries from famed neighbour Pastelería Hofmann.
See also Third-wave artisan-coffee specialist Nømad, hidden away on Passatge Sert.
What Opened in 2018, Ian Schrager’s signature five-star is a subtly luxe, fashion-forward retreat.
Go for The high-tech rooms with Catalan touches (local leather, walnut wood), and the chic rooftop plunge pool.
But don’t miss Cocktails on the flower-filled terrace, or in the speakeasy-style, candlelit Punch Room.
See also Super-smart moody-hued rooms and a rooftop infinity pool at Grand Hotel Central.
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What One of the Catalan capital’s most celebrated cava and tapas hangouts; down-to-earth and always packed out.
Go for A few glasses of the deliciously affordable house bubbly, soaked up with old-school bites like tortilla and Iberian ham.
But don’t miss The 1920s marble-topped tables and prettily tiled walls.
See also Bormuth, for homemade vermouth.
L’Alternativa Festival de Cinema is 11–17 November