“Yotam Ottolenghi’s ideas are changing the way London eats,” said an 8,000-word New Yorker profile in 2012. Six years on, the shapeshifting chef is still at it. One of his longest-serving cohorts, Ramael Scully, has just opened one of the best restaurants of 2018 – a widely raved-about, very un-Mayfair Mayfair opening full of experimental, out-there-in-a-good-way Ottolenghi-isms that channel Scully’s mixed – very mixed – heritage (Malay-Australian by way of Bali, China, Ireland and India). But that doesn’t mean it’s high-fuss at the expense of a decent feed: one of the stand-out dishes, in fact, is the simple heirloom tomato salad (pictured), served with coconut, pickled green strawberries and fruit-vinegar shrub. “Utterly brilliant”, said one critic. Book well ahead.